真丝丝巾酸性染料扎染新工艺

New Tie-dyeing Process for Silk Scarves Dyed with Acid Dyes

中文关键词: 扎染  丝巾  酸性染料  二氧化硫脲

英文关键词: tie-dyeing  silk scarves  acid dyes  thiourea dioxide

中文摘要:

      为传承扎染技艺、创新丝巾设计，选择酸性染料对丝巾先染地色，然后将丝巾扎花并投入二氧化硫脲 (TD) 溶液中还原剥色。单因素影响实验表明，酸性染料依利尼尔橙 B-GSN 和尼龙山红 N-2RBL 最佳剥色工艺为：TD 质量浓度 1 g/L，还原温度 70℃，还原时间 6 min；尼龙山橙 N-RL 和尼龙山艳蓝 N-FL 最佳剥色工艺为：TD 质量浓度 6 g/L，还原温度 70℃，还原时间 8 min。根据最佳剥色工艺对染有地色的丝巾采用单色扎染、拼色扎染和套色扎染等方法得到与常规扎染完全不同的图案效果。

英文摘要:

      In order to inherit the tie-dyeing technique and innovate the design of silk scarves, we chose acid dyes for the ground color of the silk scarves first, and then we tie the silk scarf tightly and put it into a thiourea dioxide (TD) solution to reduce the color stripping. The one-factor effect experiments show that the best color stripping process for acid dyes Erionyl Orange B-GSN and Nylosan Red N-2RBL are: TD mass concentration 1 g/L, reduction temperature 70℃, reduction time 6 min; Nylosan Orange N-RL and Nylosan Brilliant Blue N-FL are: TD mass concentration 6 g/L, reduction temperature 70℃, reduction time 8 min. According to the optimal color stripping process, we can get completely different pattern effects from the conventional tie-dyeing on the silk scarves dyed with ground color by one-colored tie-dyeing, match-colored tie-dyeing and over-colored tie-dyeing.